Hillwalking Thread

[GTG_03]

8 hours ago, Swello said:

The full traverse of the Rum Cuillin is one of the classic Scottish big mountain days (with a big report to match, sorry ) and it's been on my list for years - and with the settled forecast and a free weekend coming together nicely, I finally attempted it. The Small Isles ferry leaves Mallaig at 7:30am, so a van kip in a layby near there was needed on Friday night and I was at the Ferry terminal for 7am. 

The trip out to Rum was a pleasure and I sat on the deck with a coffee enjoying the view with Knoydart, Skye and Eigg all all looking magnificent and I saw more dolphins than I've ever seen in Scotland before. Given the unbelievable weather, I was expecting it to be busy, but there were only 8 of us on the MV Loch Nevis and I was even more surprised when only 3 including me got off at Rum.

After wandering past the infamous Kinloch Castle, I picked up a good path that went through some re-generating native woodland up to a little hydro scheme. This was the end of the easy bit.

Soon I was up at the beginning of the ridge proper as I approached Hallival. The heat was already pretty oppressive and I was deliberately taking it a lot easier than usual as flaking out on this walk would be pretty serious. I could see most of the days walk stretched out before me and the number of low bealachs and the steep drops and re-ascents were looking quite intimidating

Hallival done (and the first horrible slow, very steep, scrambly descent later) and I was onto Askival, the high point of the Rum Cuillin. Lots of tricky route finding to get up the steep stuff - but the views from the top on a day like this were sensational all round.

I spoke to the only other person that I saw on the hill at this point - but he was heading down and not doing the full ridge. I was honestly surprised by how quiet it was as there is a fairly short window of opportunity every year to do this walk in daylight. The drop down off here was really difficult and it took a lot longer than the climb had - it also spat me out at the low point of the ridge, which was a bit dispiriting as I was fucking roasting by this point.

Trollival was the nicest summit of the day (and one of the pointiest in Scotland I'd say) - and a slightly unnerving one to get onto as it was more exposed than I was expecting - the downclimb on the way back was interesting.

After yet another tough descent to another low bealach - I headed up (knackered by this point) what felt like a huge climb onto Anshivall, 2nd highest hill and another Corbett. I had a rest for the best part of 45 mins which is very unusual for me but the heat was getting to me and I was feeling pretty shit.

The final hill (the other) Sgurr nan Gillean was the easiest part of the ridge but by this stage it was 6pm, I was on the very last of my water and just wanting to get down to Dibidil where I planned to camp so I didn't hang about.

The climb down from here to sea level was a fucking nightmare - the very worst thing to have at this stage of the day as a mistake would have been really bad and I was losing the plot slightly by this point. I had been out of water for about 45 mins and I heard one of the best sounds you can hear on a baking dry day like this when all the streambeds are dry - the trickling noise of a spring. It took about 10 mins to fill my Platypus back up to 2 litres and in that time, I was eaten alive by midges - so I canned all thoughts of using my tent that I had carried all the way and decided I was staying at Dibidil bothy even if it was packed. I was delighted when I finally saw it.

As bothies go, this is up there with the best and I was genuinely astonished when I finally staggered up to the door and the big bolt lock was closed - it was empty - yaas!. I felt terrible and as I had been so hot I hadn't eaten much over the day and so I had to force myself to have a cup a soup and half an hour later when I had changed and cooled down I had my normal freeze dried packet meal and felt back to normal. I also had a miraculous 4G signal, so I watched the CL final on my phone and got the hip flask tanned.

I set up for a kip - but as common with any time I've slept in an empty bothy, I had an absolutely terrible sleep (and the no curtains and light at 4am didn't help), so I was up at 6am and ready for the 9km back round the coast to Kinloch and the ferry back at 10:45.

I said goodbye to my midge free luxury holiday cottage and started round the coastal path that is usually a swamp but after the last few weeks was merely a bit damp (and I was able to fully enjoy it even if it was spitting with rain by now).

I was at the ferry slip with an hour to spare, so made myself a coffee and relaxed and then enjoyed the cruise out to Canna and back to Mallaig (and the huge Calmac Burger went down well). This will be (once I've recovered) one of my favourite ever walks - not easy but for folk that like an epic, there aren't many better.

 

 

 

 

Those pictures are incredible mate, gives me some motivation to get out there this summer

[invergowrie arab]

1 hour ago, GTG_03 said:

Has anybody stayed at the crask Inn? Was thinking of camping there and maybe climbing Ben klibreck, any tips? Best place to start and best place to park? First one for me so I'm looking forward to it.

The Crask is very weird but IMO everyone should experience it. It is not unpleasant, just a bit haphazard. Go if you are happy to have a dog bothering you and weird tartan/lime decor.

The walkhighlands route is probably the shortest/least boggy approach.

Beinn Dearg in Atholl for me this weekend as I attempt to get the wife caught up on my munro tally.

18 miles but much easier than walks half the length due to the gradient of ascent.

Some folk think the views are boring but I love the feeling of space on those east of A9 hills 

 

Edited June 12, 2023 by invergowrie arab

[Swello]

11 hours ago, invergowrie arab said:

The Crask is very weird but IMO everyone should experience it. It is not unpleasant, just a bit haphazard. Go if you are happy to have a dog bothering you and weird tartan/lime decor.

The walkhighlands route is probably the shortest/least boggy approach.

Beinn Dearg in Atholl for me this weekend as I attempt to get the wife caught up on my munro tally.

18 miles but much easier than walks half the length due to the gradient of ascent.

Some folk think the views are boring but I love the feeling of space on those east of A9 hills 

 

What's the name of that Bothy? I had lunch in there when I climbed Beinn Dearg on a horrible December day but my mind's gone blank...

[invergowrie arab]

Allt Scheicheachan. One of my favourites for a lunch stop, really neat and tidy but a bit cramped for an overnighter I'd have thought

 

 

[Swello]

14 hours ago, GTG_03 said:

Has anybody stayed at the crask Inn? Was thinking of camping there and maybe climbing Ben klibreck, any tips? Best place to start and best place to park? First one for me so I'm looking forward to it.

I'm all in favour of folk doing different hills as their first one - and Ben Klibreck is one of the quieter/more obscure Munros. I did it directly from the door of the Crask Inn, taking a landrover track that's a couple of hundred metres up the road and then heading across some bog onto Cnoc Sgriodain and then followed the ridge round. If there was some cloud down, there's probably some navigation difficulties on the hill as it's mostly pathless (or was when I did it) - so take that into account.

If you are looking for an alternative - Ben Hope is an excellent walk, mostly on good paths and is not much more than 30 mins drive from Crask (and starting on the most northerly Munro could be a nice one).

[GTG_03]

On 12/06/2023 at 13:25, Swello said:

The full traverse of the Rum Cuillin is one of the classic Scottish big mountain days (with a big report to match, sorry ) and it's been on my list for years - and with the settled forecast and a free weekend coming together nicely, I finally attempted it. The Small Isles ferry leaves Mallaig at 7:30am, so a van kip in a layby near there was needed on Friday night and I was at the Ferry terminal for 7am. 

The trip out to Rum was a pleasure and I sat on the deck with a coffee enjoying the view with Knoydart, Skye and Eigg all all looking magnificent and I saw more dolphins than I've ever seen in Scotland before. Given the unbelievable weather, I was expecting it to be busy, but there were only 8 of us on the MV Loch Nevis and I was even more surprised when only 3 including me got off at Rum.

After wandering past the infamous Kinloch Castle, I picked up a good path that went through some re-generating native woodland up to a little hydro scheme. This was the end of the easy bit.

Soon I was up at the beginning of the ridge proper as I approached Hallival. The heat was already pretty oppressive and I was deliberately taking it a lot easier than usual as flaking out on this walk would be pretty serious. I could see most of the days walk stretched out before me and the number of low bealachs and the steep drops and re-ascents were looking quite intimidating

Hallival done (and the first horrible slow, very steep, scrambly descent later) and I was onto Askival, the high point of the Rum Cuillin. Lots of tricky route finding to get up the steep stuff - but the views from the top on a day like this were sensational all round.

I spoke to the only other person that I saw on the hill at this point - but he was heading down and not doing the full ridge. I was honestly surprised by how quiet it was as there is a fairly short window of opportunity every year to do this walk in daylight. The drop down off here was really difficult and it took a lot longer than the climb had - it also spat me out at the low point of the ridge, which was a bit dispiriting as I was fucking roasting by this point.

Trollival was the nicest summit of the day (and one of the pointiest in Scotland I'd say) - and a slightly unnerving one to get onto as it was more exposed than I was expecting - the downclimb on the way back was interesting.

After yet another tough descent to another low bealach - I headed up (knackered by this point) what felt like a huge climb onto Anshivall, 2nd highest hill and another Corbett. I had a rest for the best part of 45 mins which is very unusual for me but the heat was getting to me and I was feeling pretty shit.

The final hill (the other) Sgurr nan Gillean was the easiest part of the ridge but by this stage it was 6pm, I was on the very last of my water and just wanting to get down to Dibidil where I planned to camp so I didn't hang about.

The climb down from here to sea level was a fucking nightmare - the very worst thing to have at this stage of the day as a mistake would have been really bad and I was losing the plot slightly by this point. I had been out of water for about 45 mins and I heard one of the best sounds you can hear on a baking dry day like this when all the streambeds are dry - the trickling noise of a spring. It took about 10 mins to fill my Platypus back up to 2 litres and in that time, I was eaten alive by midges - so I canned all thoughts of using my tent that I had carried all the way and decided I was staying at Dibidil bothy even if it was packed. I was delighted when I finally saw it.

As bothies go, this is up there with the best and I was genuinely astonished when I finally staggered up to the door and the big bolt lock was closed - it was empty - yaas!. I felt terrible and as I had been so hot I hadn't eaten much over the day and so I had to force myself to have a cup a soup and half an hour later when I had changed and cooled down I had my normal freeze dried packet meal and felt back to normal. I also had a miraculous 4G signal, so I watched the CL final on my phone and got the hip flask tanned.

I set up for a kip - but as common with any time I've slept in an empty bothy, I had an absolutely terrible sleep (and the no curtains and light at 4am didn't help), so I was up at 6am and ready for the 9km back round the coast to Kinloch and the ferry back at 10:45.

I said goodbye to my midge free luxury holiday cottage and started round the coastal path that is usually a swamp but after the last few weeks was merely a bit damp (and I was able to fully enjoy it even if it was spitting with rain by now).

I was at the ferry slip with an hour to spare, so made myself a coffee and relaxed and then enjoyed the cruise out to Canna and back to Mallaig (and the huge Calmac Burger went down well). This will be (once I've recovered) one of my favourite ever walks - not easy but for folk that like an epic, there aren't many better.

 

 

 

 

I'm thinking of doing something similar this weekend, was there anywhere to leave your vehicle? I'm probably gonna drive down early on the Saturday for the ferry. 

[Swello]

7 hours ago, GTG_03 said:

I'm thinking of doing something similar this weekend, was there anywhere to leave your vehicle? I'm probably gonna drive down early on the Saturday for the ferry. 

There's a long stay car park on the left just as you come into Mallaig - it's free. If it's full (which it often is, even overnight) there is more parking on the other side of town as you head out that is fine for the ferry terminal. Ferry is £4.70 each way (I couldn't get the new calmac online ticketing to do a return, so bought 2 singles)

If you fancy that walk - have a look at the Walk Highlands route page for it. The first paragraph is spot-on in everything it says (and it's one of the few outside Skye that they grade at the hardest difficulty)

Quote

The Rum Cuillin provide one of the finest but most demanding hill circuits in all Scotland; an unsurpassed combination of mountain and sea with unforgettable views. The route is extremely arduous; whilst the scrambling is mostly straightforward, careful route finding is essential - the route is also very committing with few escape options.

Also - keep an eye on the mountain weather forecast here: https://www.mwis.org.uk/forecasts/scottish/west-highlands as there is thunder/lightning around this weekend (which is where the "few escape options" becomes important).

[GTG_03]

2 minutes ago, Swello said:

There's a long stay car park on the left just as you come into Mallaig - it's free. If it's full (which it often is, even overnight) there is more parking on the other side of town as you head out that is fine for the ferry terminal. Ferry is £4.70 each way (I couldn't get the new calmac online ticketing to do a return, so bought 2 singles)

If you fancy that walk - have a look at the Walk Highlands route page for it. The first paragraph is spot-on in everything it says (and it's one of the few outside Skye that they grade at the hardest difficulty)

Also - keep an eye on the mountain weather forecast here: https://www.mwis.org.uk/forecasts/scottish/west-highlands as there is thunder/lightning around this weekend (which is where the "few escape options" becomes important).

Thanks for the advice, which I'm going to heed due to the weather and postpone that particular one. I'm having a look a little closer to home but still considering Ben klibreck.

 

[Central Belt Caley]

The record for fastest Munro round has been beaten:

https://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/news/record-for-fastest-munro-round-smashed-by-jamie-aarons/

Hats off to those who can manage all 282 in a month, I’ll stick a more leisurely pace though 

[Count Mongo del Fantastico]

That's an incredible feat however, trying to do stuff like that always feels to me like missing the point of being there.

[Swello]

Scary and impressive. It's not for me (it took me 13 years ) but I think this sort of thing has been going on for a long time - Hamish Brown did a self powered continuous round in the mid-70's (the book of it is quite a good read if you like that sort of thing). As well as all the fitness and mental strength, you'd also need to be pretty lucky with injury and weather (assuming you're doing it safely).

[invergowrie arab]

I'm always put off by the things because having read Hamish Browns and Marting Morans books they come off like a pair of dicks. 

But I suppose you have to be single minded, selfish and a bit arrogant to do stuff like that.

Anyway what's more impressive? Some skinny super athlete with the best of gear doing this or me at 18 Stone after a night on whisky and fags dragging myself round some Lagan peat hags in the wind and rain?

[CarrbridgeSaintee]

On 12/06/2023 at 12:25, Swello said:

The full traverse of the Rum Cuillin is one of the classic Scottish big mountain days (with a big report to match, sorry ) and it's been on my list for years - and with the settled forecast and a free weekend coming together nicely, I finally attempted it. The Small Isles ferry leaves Mallaig at 7:30am, so a van kip in a layby near there was needed on Friday night and I was at the Ferry terminal for 7am. 

The trip out to Rum was a pleasure and I sat on the deck with a coffee enjoying the view with Knoydart, Skye and Eigg all all looking magnificent and I saw more dolphins than I've ever seen in Scotland before. Given the unbelievable weather, I was expecting it to be busy, but there were only 8 of us on the MV Loch Nevis and I was even more surprised when only 3 including me got off at Rum.

After wandering past the infamous Kinloch Castle, I picked up a good path that went through some re-generating native woodland up to a little hydro scheme. This was the end of the easy bit.

Soon I was up at the beginning of the ridge proper as I approached Hallival. The heat was already pretty oppressive and I was deliberately taking it a lot easier than usual as flaking out on this walk would be pretty serious. I could see most of the days walk stretched out before me and the number of low bealachs and the steep drops and re-ascents were looking quite intimidating

Hallival done (and the first horrible slow, very steep, scrambly descent later) and I was onto Askival, the high point of the Rum Cuillin. Lots of tricky route finding to get up the steep stuff - but the views from the top on a day like this were sensational all round.

I spoke to the only other person that I saw on the hill at this point - but he was heading down and not doing the full ridge. I was honestly surprised by how quiet it was as there is a fairly short window of opportunity every year to do this walk in daylight. The drop down off here was really difficult and it took a lot longer than the climb had - it also spat me out at the low point of the ridge, which was a bit dispiriting as I was fucking roasting by this point.

Trollival was the nicest summit of the day (and one of the pointiest in Scotland I'd say) - and a slightly unnerving one to get onto as it was more exposed than I was expecting - the downclimb on the way back was interesting.

After yet another tough descent to another low bealach - I headed up (knackered by this point) what felt like a huge climb onto Anshivall, 2nd highest hill and another Corbett. I had a rest for the best part of 45 mins which is very unusual for me but the heat was getting to me and I was feeling pretty shit.

The final hill (the other) Sgurr nan Gillean was the easiest part of the ridge but by this stage it was 6pm, I was on the very last of my water and just wanting to get down to Dibidil where I planned to camp so I didn't hang about.

The climb down from here to sea level was a fucking nightmare - the very worst thing to have at this stage of the day as a mistake would have been really bad and I was losing the plot slightly by this point. I had been out of water for about 45 mins and I heard one of the best sounds you can hear on a baking dry day like this when all the streambeds are dry - the trickling noise of a spring. It took about 10 mins to fill my Platypus back up to 2 litres and in that time, I was eaten alive by midges - so I canned all thoughts of using my tent that I had carried all the way and decided I was staying at Dibidil bothy even if it was packed. I was delighted when I finally saw it.

As bothies go, this is up there with the best and I was genuinely astonished when I finally staggered up to the door and the big bolt lock was closed - it was empty - yaas!. I felt terrible and as I had been so hot I hadn't eaten much over the day and so I had to force myself to have a cup a soup and half an hour later when I had changed and cooled down I had my normal freeze dried packet meal and felt back to normal. I also had a miraculous 4G signal, so I watched the CL final on my phone and got the hip flask tanned.

I set up for a kip - but as common with any time I've slept in an empty bothy, I had an absolutely terrible sleep (and the no curtains and light at 4am didn't help), so I was up at 6am and ready for the 9km back round the coast to Kinloch and the ferry back at 10:45.

I said goodbye to my midge free luxury holiday cottage and started round the coastal path that is usually a swamp but after the last few weeks was merely a bit damp (and I was able to fully enjoy it even if it was spitting with rain by now).

I was at the ferry slip with an hour to spare, so made myself a coffee and relaxed and then enjoyed the cruise out to Canna and back to Mallaig (and the huge Calmac Burger went down well). This will be (once I've recovered) one of my favourite ever walks - not easy but for folk that like an epic, there aren't many better.

 

 

 

 

Tremendous post my friend! Thanks for sharing.

[invergowrie arab]

Ladhar Bheinn is consistently acknowledged as one of the, if not the, most spectacular mountain days in Scotland so of course this is my experience of it.

Of the classic seascape munros that's all the Cuillin (except Inn Pin TBF), Beinn a' Bheithir and now Ladhar Bheinn where I have seen f**k all.

Was cloud free half hour before I got there too. 

Seething.

 

[Swello]

1 hour ago, invergowrie arab said:

Ladhar Bheinn is consistently acknowledged as one of the, if not the, most spectacular mountain days in Scotland so of course this is my experience of it.

Of the classic seascape munros that's all the Cuillin (except Inn Pin TBF), Beinn a' Bheithir and now Ladhar Bheinn where I have seen f**k all.

Was cloud free half hour before I got there too. 

Seething.

 

Nightmare - did you do it from Inverie or Barrisdale? 

The problem is that all the good "sea view" mountains are on the west coast, one of the rainiest parts of europe and so unless you pick your days (which isn't always possible), it's always likely to be cloudy. Beinn Sgritheall is my most disappointing one - still planning to do that again on a nice day.

[invergowrie arab]

21 hours ago, Swello said:

Nightmare - did you do it from Inverie or Barrisdale? 

The problem is that all the good "sea view" mountains are on the west coast, one of the rainiest parts of europe and so unless you pick your days (which isn't always possible), it's always likely to be cloudy. Beinn Sgritheall is my most disappointing one - still planning to do that again on a nice day.

Did it from Inverie and biked into Gleann na Guisearan for a there and back so not too much energy expended. Didn't do the full circuit as had my suspicions would be dodgy weather wise. I'll do the full circuit one day in better weather.

Problem with a lot of places now is you can't turn up on spec, unless camping, so need to book months in advance.

Did get much better weather today for Meall Buidhe but had to get last ferry out today so no time for Luinne Bheinn but that's fine, happy to come back.

 

 

Edited June 29, 2023 by invergowrie arab

[Swello]

1 hour ago, invergowrie arab said:

Did it from Inverie and biked into Gleann na Guisearan for a there and back so not too much energy expended. Didn't do the full circuit as had my suspicions would be dodgy weather wise. I'll do the full circuit one day in better weather.

Problem with a lot of places now is you can't turn up on spec, unless camping, so need to book months in advance.

Did get much better weather today for Meall Buidhe but had to get last ferry out today so no time for Luinne Bheinn but that's fine, happy to come back.

 

 

That bottom picture is brilliant - makes me want to go back. You got the opposite to me - over 2 days, I got Ladhar Bheinn on a great day and Luinne Bheinn/Meall Bhuidhe in cloud all the way round.

More importantly - how's the Old Forge now?

[invergowrie arab]

20 minutes ago, Swello said:

That bottom picture is brilliant - makes me want to go back. You got the opposite to me - over 2 days, I got Ladhar Bheinn on a great day and Luinne Bheinn/Meall Bhuidhe in cloud all the way round.

More importantly - how's the Old Forge now?

Still not open. Was due to be opening end May but got let down by some suppliers so another good reason to come back

[Central Belt Caley]

The weather forecast looked a bit of a mare through the west today so we headed out east to Mount Keen, which is a decent walk but nothing too arduous. We had rain, hail, wind and sunshine so a mixed bag weather wise. Good day out all the same! 

[Central Belt Caley]

Off work this week and the weather in the west looked pretty pish again so headed up to Glenshee for the Glas Maol 4. Not the most exciting hills but Creag Leacach was a lovely number with views all around for miles (pity that the cairnwell is in view)

Carn of Claise

Creag Leacach

 

Walkhighlands suggested 6.5-7.5 hours for the walk and I was back at the car in 5 hours 40 mins, including a stop at the ski centre on the walk back along for the loo. The estimates on there seem a bit hit or miss.