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2 minutes ago, Zen Archer (Raconteur) said:

If it's a zone valve failure (sounds like it is), you can replace the synchron motor without changing the valve and obviously without draining the system.

See the source image

If you are confident you can do this yourself.

Make sure you know the make of valve and phone round before setting off, nothing worse than a wild goose chase.

Is it the case that the boiler needs to see the heating zone valve open limit made before it will fire? I cant figure out whats stopping the demand. I have heard of the limit switches failing on them. 

Its a honeywell valve. 

Il be hinest, British Gas homecare are likely to get rhe shout for this for a 50 quid excess, as the valves and motors look expensive and I am not fully confident I could do it tbh. 

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Just now, Bairnardo said:

Is it the case that the boiler needs to see the heating zone valve open limit made before it will fire? I cant figure out whats stopping the demand. I have heard of the limit switches failing on them. 

Its a honeywell valve. 

Il be hinest, British Gas homecare are likely to get rhe shout for this for a 50 quid excess, as the valves and motors look expensive and I am not fully confident I could do it tbh. 

When your timer turns on the heating it will signal the boiler & Pump to start and providing the room stat is calling for heat the zone valve will motor open.

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Just now, Zen Archer (Raconteur) said:

When your timer turns on the heating it will signal the boiler & Pump to start and providing the room stat is calling for heat the zone valve will motor open.

Ok, so the zone valve failing probably shouldnt prevent a run signal to the boiler then? 

Im puzzled here tbh. British Gas website not working to get the c***s out either. Seething here

 

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Just now, Bairnardo said:

Yeah one for hot water and one for radiators. 

Just narrow it down, if you have hot water and the pump is running that part is OK.

If the pump is running, manually opening the supposed faulty heating zone valve would let hot water into the heating system.

The lever on the valve will spring return when released and close, there is a hook you have to let the lever rest in to keep the valve manually open, have you noticed this?

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1 minute ago, Zen Archer (Raconteur) said:

Just narrow it down, if you have hot water and the pump is running that part is OK.

If the pump is running, manually opening the supposed faulty heating zone valve would let hot water into the heating system.

The lever on the valve will spring return when released and close, there is a hook you have to let the lever rest in to keep the valve manually open, have you noticed this?

I have done this. I could get heat into the radiators by doing this with the hot water demanding the boiler

 Then I switched the hot water off leaving the heating demand on, and the boiler shut off. 

 

Put the valve back to auto for now. 

Edited by Bairnardo
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Just now, Bairnardo said:

I have done this. I could get heat into the radiators by doing this with the hot water demanding the boiler

 Then I switched the how eater off leaving the heating demand on, and the boiler shut off. 

 

Put the valve back to auto for now. 

I think you need to get a guy in, something fishy going on.

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I was telling the other half tales of my youth grifting at pool tables and it occurred to me that I can't even remember the last time I saw a pool table in a bar or pub.

Anyone know any in the Glasgow area as she now wants to go play pool in a boozy environment.

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4 hours ago, Sergeant Wilson said:

How many times have I said? When gas or electricity play up, have a go yourself, before the needless expense of calling a professional.

Unless your name's Shandon as you will likely cause needless expense to the NHS

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