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Anyone any experience / know if it's possible to sell a car with outstanding finance? Had our first baby 6 weeks ago and with me now being back at work, the wife has decided that her wee car isn't big enough. 

I know that the likes of We Buy Any Car will buy a car with finance but (as expected) their offer is lower than what it would be to sell privately so would rather go down this route. 

Just looking to know what the script is with selling privately (i.e. - would the buyer pay the finance company first then any remainder would come to ourselves?). 

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1 hour ago, Ron Aldo said:

Anyone any experience / know if it's possible to sell a car with outstanding finance? Had our first baby 6 weeks ago and with me now being back at work, the wife has decided that her wee car isn't big enough. 

I know that the likes of We Buy Any Car will buy a car with finance but (as expected) their offer is lower than what it would be to sell privately so would rather go down this route. 

Just looking to know what the script is with selling privately (i.e. - would the buyer pay the finance company first then any remainder would come to ourselves?). 

I’ve always just traded in and had the outstanding finance settled as part of the new finance deal on the new car. 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Ron Aldo said:

Anyone any experience / know if it's possible to sell a car with outstanding finance? Had our first baby 6 weeks ago and with me now being back at work, the wife has decided that her wee car isn't big enough. 

I know that the likes of We Buy Any Car will buy a car with finance but (as expected) their offer is lower than what it would be to sell privately so would rather go down this route. 

Just looking to know what the script is with selling privately (i.e. - would the buyer pay the finance company first then any remainder would come to ourselves?). 

Good luck with that in a private sale.  Most buyers won't be willing to have the hassle as it doesn't help them out it any way and they have to go through the bother of getting a settlement figure, bank details etc. from the finance company and then making two separate payments.  If it were me, I would only be doing it if I could get a significant discount on the car which would then take you to the WBAC prices.

I am being massively presumptuous here but if you are going to have to take out finance for the new car then it would probably be financially better for you to take out a bank loan for the new vehicle before you sell the existing car.  Use some of it to pay off the outstanding balance and then when you sell your existing car you replace the money.  Alternatively take out a bank loan to pay off your existing car and pay it back as soon as you have sold it.  The interest payments will usually be 58 days worth as a repayment penalty but would probably be less than the discount you would have to offer someone to purchase it with outstanding finance.

Edited by strichener
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22 hours ago, PB1994 said:

Car went into the garage on Monday and they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. 2 of them took the car out of a drive and it worked with no issues. Started playing up again so took it too my cousin, who’s a mechanic, over east. Was playing up the whole way there so of course he jumps in and again it works perfectly well and he couldn’t find any issues. The mrs took it to the garage this afternoon and again it worked perfectly when they took it for a drive. Feel like I’m going fucking mad. It only seems to happen when either myself or the wife drive the car.

Its out of warranty in a few months as well so I’m predicting it will be completely fucked the day after it expires.

Nope. You’ve documented the defect, the fact they cannot duplicate it right now doesn’t necessarily absolve the manufacturer from a warranty coverage just because it was intermittent and not detected by them before warranty expiration. If it continues, take it in again, it’s just more proof they have to still cover it. Maintain records of your multiple complaints to bolster your claim.

It sounds like an complete engine stop and start is a possible factor in occurrence/non-occurance of the defect, so the next time it’s playing up, drive directly to the garage and ask someone there (service advisor or mechanic) to immediately give it a quick run through the gears without stopping it. Meanwhile, you watch how they do it and try to see if somehow you or your wife do something a bit different.

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5 hours ago, Ron Aldo said:

Anyone any experience / know if it's possible to sell a car with outstanding finance? Had our first baby 6 weeks ago and with me now being back at work, the wife has decided that her wee car isn't big enough. 

I know that the likes of We Buy Any Car will buy a car with finance but (as expected) their offer is lower than what it would be to sell privately so would rather go down this route. 

Just looking to know what the script is with selling privately (i.e. - would the buyer pay the finance company first then any remainder would come to ourselves?). 

Yes, simple enough. 

Phone your current finance provider and ask for a settlement figure. 

What essentially happens is that when you buy a new car, the garage you use will "buy" your old car off you for the settlement figure. They pay that direct to the finance company. 

Now, if you use something like CarFinance247 (who are very good but very pushy), tell them what that figure is and that you're looking to trade in the car. They tell the garages in advance so everything is in place. 

The only downside is if you got your current car recently (say, within the last 2 years). In that case the settlement figure might be higher than the garage is willing to trade in - you'll either need to find the difference or use a lender who will add this difference to your new finance agreement. 

You would get more money for your existing car selling privately, but for me the hassle factor is too much. 

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Looking for advice here - my car failed it's MOT on 3 things, which are now fixed, and is booked in for the retest on Monday. I had to take it to another garage to get a drivers side front spring replaced, and was met by this when I collected it. The garage was closed when I picked it up, but messaged the boss who phoned the guy that fixed it,  he hadn't noticed anything, and claims it must be an old chip. The guy that did the MOT says it wasn't like that when he checked it and would have flagged it up straight away. It most definitely wasn't like that yesterday when it was dropped off.

20240506_174859.jpg

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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, philpy said:

Looking for advice here - my car failed it's MOT on 3 things, which are now fixed, and is booked in for the retest on Monday. I had to take it to another garage to get a drivers side front spring replaced, and was met by this when I collected it. The garage was closed when I picked it up, but messaged the boss who phoned the guy that fixed it,  he hadn't noticed anything, and claims it must be an old chip. The guy that did the MOT says it wasn't like that when he checked it and would have flagged it up straight away. It most definitely wasn't like that yesterday when it was dropped off.

20240506_174859.jpg

The edges of the break look dirty ie it's had time to build up.

Edited by Sergeant Wilson
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Just now, Sergeant Wilson said:

The edges of the break look dirty is it's had time to build up.

The guy at the garage did say that, but how has that happened between  getting dropped off at the garage at 2pm yesterday and getting picked up at 5.30 tonight, that's the issue here. IMO That's too far down to have been caused by a stone.

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3 hours ago, philpy said:

Looking for advice here - my car failed it's MOT on 3 things, which are now fixed, and is booked in for the retest on Monday. I had to take it to another garage to get a drivers side front spring replaced, and was met by this when I collected it. The garage was closed when I picked it up, but messaged the boss who phoned the guy that fixed it,  he hadn't noticed anything, and claims it must be an old chip. The guy that did the MOT says it wasn't like that when he checked it and would have flagged it up straight away. It most definitely wasn't like that yesterday when it was dropped off.

20240506_174859.jpg

Break from the edge could be stress fracture…but….

If there isn’t a clear impact point, running a biro along the crack can usually tell you if there was an impact. If it just runs along smoothly, it’s a stress crack, if it bobbles at a point, that’s the impact point. Glass repair guy showed me that trick, and then used a flashlight from inside the glass, angling it this way and that, until it was just visible.

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Looks to me like it’s had an impact very close to the rubber and, as Sarge says, there’s a fair bit of grime in it so it’s been there for some time. If the spring replacement was done off a single jack rather than a proper hoist I reckon that’d be enough twist stress in the frame to make it crack. 

You’ll have windscreen cover on your insurance? Just pay the excess and get it done…

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13 hours ago, philpy said:

Looking for advice here - my car failed it's MOT on 3 things, which are now fixed, and is booked in for the retest on Monday. I had to take it to another garage to get a drivers side front spring replaced, and was met by this when I collected it. The garage was closed when I picked it up, but messaged the boss who phoned the guy that fixed it,  he hadn't noticed anything, and claims it must be an old chip. The guy that did the MOT says it wasn't like that when he checked it and would have flagged it up straight away. It most definitely wasn't like that yesterday when it was dropped off.

20240506_174859.jpg

Chances are there was already the impact and messing around with it for repairs just made the crack worse and more noticeable. Insurance job, no point arguing with garages.

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1 hour ago, RH33 said:

Chances are there was already the impact and messing around with it for repairs just made the crack worse and more noticeable. Insurance job, no point arguing with garages.

Aye, going to have to go Down the insurance route, £75 excess, but that's life I suppose. 

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My car advice is to not use kwik fit. To be fair to them, they’ve put it right and not tried to dodge the blame, but they haven’t exactly admitted that they fucked up either. My brakes definitely weren’t falling apart before they changed the pads, but did shortly afterwards.

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20240507_194852.thumb.jpg.306ecf6ce62352ea6a59a09e79687d15.jpg

 

What's this device in my upgraded van? There are 2 of the wee doofers I'm holding, and when I went to remove the device screwed onto the dash, there's a wire connected that disappears into the fascia.

Is it critical to the van working, or, as I suspect, on old mobile phone fitting?

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25 minutes ago, Boghead ranter said:

20240507_194852.thumb.jpg.306ecf6ce62352ea6a59a09e79687d15.jpg

 

What's this device in my upgraded van? There are 2 of the wee doofers I'm holding, and when I went to remove the device screwed onto the dash, there's a wire connected that disappears into the fascia.

Is it critical to the van working, or, as I suspect, on old mobile phone fitting?

Imo.

images (6).jpeg

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10 hours ago, Boghead ranter said:

20240507_194852.thumb.jpg.306ecf6ce62352ea6a59a09e79687d15.jpg

 

What's this device in my upgraded van? There are 2 of the wee doofers I'm holding, and when I went to remove the device screwed onto the dash, there's a wire connected that disappears into the fascia.

Is it critical to the van working, or, as I suspect, on old mobile phone fitting?

Ejector seat engagement. 

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11 hours ago, Boghead ranter said:

20240507_194852.thumb.jpg.306ecf6ce62352ea6a59a09e79687d15.jpg

 

What's this device in my upgraded van? There are 2 of the wee doofers I'm holding, and when I went to remove the device screwed onto the dash, there's a wire connected that disappears into the fascia.

Is it critical to the van working, or, as I suspect, on old mobile phone fitting?

It's some sort of key or id. I'd one for getting into an old workplace. Does it unlock your steering? 

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