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I think there's an easy fix for this but someone here might know. Sorry if it isn't described well, I'm shite at explaining things like this!

1.3 vvti engine has a rattle in the high rev range. I've heard something before about a different engine that it can be caused by a worn bearing in the cam shaft that activates the variable cam timing.

Sometimes the engine management light comes on and the noise goes away but the car doesn't have as much poke but is perfectly drivable. Then it sorts itself out, the light goes out, the car drives great but the rattle comes back.

It's an old shitter so as long as it's running I'm quite happy.

Is it worth trying to fix it? Does anyone know what I need? Or will it be ok to just to ignore it  (won't cause terminal damage) and live with it until the rest of the car eventually dies? 

Edited by Spyro
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On 24/08/2024 at 14:22, Spyro said:

I think there's an easy fix for this but someone here might know. Sorry if it isn't described well, I'm shite at explaining things like this!

1.3 vvti engine has a rattle in the high rev range. I've heard something before about a different engine that it can be caused by a worn bearing in the cam shaft that activates the variable cam timing.

Sometimes the engine management light comes on and the noise goes away but the car doesn't have as much poke but is perfectly drivable. Then it sorts itself out, the light goes out, the car drives great but the rattle comes back.

It's an old shitter so as long as it's running I'm quite happy.

Is it worth trying to fix it? Does anyone know what I need? Or will it be ok to just to ignore it  (won't cause terminal damage) and live with it until the rest of the car eventually dies? 

Sometimes it could be the PCV, but the worn bearing theory is a decent bet. The primary cause of that is oil sludge, do you know how often oil changes have been done on the beast? If it was the "recommended" 10k, and you're over 100k miles, it's a prime candidate for sludged up VVti actuators, causing excessive wear. There is a screen that can be cleaned, but if the bearings are worn, its probably a live with it or spend a decent packet to fix it right.

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19 minutes ago, TxRover said:

Sometimes it could be the PCV, but the worn bearing theory is a decent bet. The primary cause of that is oil sludge, do you know how often oil changes have been done on the beast? If it was the "recommended" 10k, and you're over 100k miles, it's a prime candidate for sludged up VVti actuators, causing excessive wear. There is a screen that can be cleaned, but if the bearings are worn, its probably a live with it or spend a decent packet to fix it right.

Good shout on the oil, I didn't realise that got involved in the vct as well. It looked really clean when I got it, like it had just had an engine service (the air filter looked brand new too) but it's done a fair amount of miles since then, is hitting 120k and I'm borderline neglectful at looking after cars! I'll give it a bash and see and see if I can get in about the cam to clean it up a bit while I'm at it.

If it doesn't sort it, it isn't the end of the world as it runs fine with the light on. It was more the rattle that worried me but I'll just turn the tunes up louder...

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1 hour ago, Florentine_Pogen said:

Thought this might be of interest to anyone on the hunt for a motor...............from today's paper.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/article/2024/aug/24/spectacular-bargains-why-now-is-a-great-time-to-buy-an-electric-car-in-the-uk

 

I never do any kind of finance when I replace a car.   I save up, and pay cash. I'd be interested in an electric car when the prices for something that still has at least 120 mile range come down to no more than £5,000.   Right now, that'll buy an elderly Nissan Leaf with about 50 or 60 mile range left, or an early Renault Zoe with leased battery.  I think a hybrid may be my next car, but I keep on eye on the way full electrics are going.

 

Edited by beefybake
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2 hours ago, beefybake said:

I never do any kind of finance when I replace a car.   I save up, and pay cash. I'd be interested in an electric car when the prices for something that still has at least 120 mile range come down to no more than £5,000.   Right now, that'll buy an elderly Nissan Leaf with about 50 or 60 mile range left, or an early Renault Zoe with leased battery.  I think a hybrid may be my next car, but I keep on eye on the way full electrics are going.

 

You would be daft to turn down anyone doing 0% finance on a car. 

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On 26/08/2024 at 19:14, 101 said:

You would be daft to turn down anyone doing 0% finance on a car. 

Yep.

Its basically free money as long as you can manage it, remember to pay it off when required etc.

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On 26/08/2024 at 16:16, Florentine_Pogen said:

Thought this might be of interest to anyone on the hunt for a motor...............from today's paper.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/article/2024/aug/24/spectacular-bargains-why-now-is-a-great-time-to-buy-an-electric-car-in-the-uk

 

Interesting as I'm getting close to needing a new second hand car.  My concern is that with electric cars would the range drop drastically with 3 or 4 years usage? 

Most batteries get lazy unless they are only charged up fully and from completely empty.

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30 minutes ago, Alert Mongoose said:

 

Most batteries get lazy unless they are only charged up fully and from completely empty.

Pretty sure that is the case for the older style rechargeables but not lithium batteries.  Best keeping it mid range if possible, 20-80%.

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On 26/08/2024 at 19:14, 101 said:

You would be daft to turn down anyone doing 0% finance on a car. 

 
Not so.
 
Most times when 0% finance is being offered it's because...( take your pick )...
 
1. You'll be stiffed on what they offer you for your trade-in.
2. It's a run-out model. That is, the car is about to be replaced by a new model. Which means that, for you, very shortly the value
of your new car will depreciate much more sharply than usual. The dealer, for their part, just wants it out the door.
3. It's a make/model of car that is almost never sold at or near the full list price. ( Except when they're offering 0% finance ). 
4. If it's a relatively desirable make/model, being offered with 0% financing, then you can pretty much guarantee that the
price being asked will be at or near the full list price.
 
Dealers, and the motor industry in general, rely heavily on the commissions they get from finance deals. If they're offering 0% finance,
there's a good reason for it, and they'll make every effort to find their profit elsewhere in the transaction.
 
 
 
Edited by beefybake
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6 hours ago, Alert Mongoose said:

Interesting as I'm getting close to needing a new second hand car.  My concern is that with electric cars would the range drop drastically with 3 or 4 years usage? 

Most batteries get lazy unless they are only charged up fully and from completely empty.

5 hours ago, Loonytoons said:

Pretty sure that is the case for the older style rechargeables but not lithium batteries.  Best keeping it mid range if possible, 20-80%.

Pretty much spot on. Tesla's will actually only charge to about 80% unless you specifically tell the car to charge fully (because you're going on a trip, for instance). Charging is also much slower between 80 and 100% (roughly the same as from 0-80%, for example). Current EV batteries are estimated to last about 12-15 years in moderate climates, and 8-12 in extreme. Tesla owners have been seeing a loss of 5% of range in 50,000 miles, but then the rate shallows and they are seeing 10% loss at the 150,000 mile mark (there's a Model S at 430,000 miles on the original battery pack).

The last 20% is more myth than reality, it's the last 5% and/or parking at a low charge and NOT charging for any long period that hurts the battery pack...but 20% is sorta like the refuel at a quarter tank theory for ICE vehicles.

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7 hours ago, Loonytoons said:

Pretty sure that is the case for the older style rechargeables but not lithium batteries.  Best keeping it mid range if possible, 20-80%.

Same with phones and laptops etc.

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1 hour ago, Archie McSquackle said:

The boot on my car won't open. Nothing fancy,just a handle or a button on the fob. Neither working. Any suggestions?

Is the handle a proper handle or a button mechanism that opens it? Maybe it's got stiff and blown a fuse?

Sometimes there a latch on the inside hidden behind some liner to open it, or to get in about it with some lube.

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7 hours ago, Archie McSquackle said:

The boot on my car won't open. Nothing fancy,just a handle or a button on the fob. Neither working. Any suggestions?

If the handle is the type which pushes a switch rather than a mechanical one, this would suggest there's no power getting to the locking mechanism itself. It's not uncommon for the wiring to break where it comes into the boot in a flexible conduit, often near the hinges depending on the body type. So many thousands of boot openings eventually wears it down. 

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9 hours ago, Archie McSquackle said:

The boot on my car won't open. Nothing fancy,just a handle or a button on the fob. Neither working. Any suggestions?

How long has the body been in there ? Might have broke a wire while trying to get the legs packed in.

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1 hour ago, Archie McSquackle said:

Thanks guys. It's a button handle. The body's not long in so it could have been that. I'll try from the inside but if it's wiring I'll be off to my local garage.

This happened to me on Tuesday.  I could hear the click as the electrics tried to open it but nada.  I gave up and got off my arse and went round the back (OK Kenneth) and gripped the underside of the boot and pulled it up and it opened.  So, aye, try that.  Turns out the the strap from my son's rucksack had covered the sensor.  

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